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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.